A NEW book which gives one man’s fascinating memories of Garelochhead has just been published.
Entitled 'Recollections of Garelochhead 100 Years Ago', it is based on the memoirs of William Hamilton, who was born in the village in 1889, and is edited by his nephew Graham.
Written late in the author’s life, it records in marvellous detail and clarity his childhood and youth before the First World War.
Although the focus is on Garelochhead and district, it almost certainly replicates the kind of existence lived by countless rural communities at that period.
The family livelihood was built on a local joinery business, started by William’s grandfather, who had come to Garelochhead from Ayrshire in the 1830s.
This was just when land for housebuilding was being feued, with consequent demand for precisely the sort of skills he had to offer.
William Hamilton, who was in his eighties, wrote in a terse and direct style, and readers are drawn seamlessly into domestic life, with the author being brought up essentially as part of an extended family.
As well as his father, several other family members worked in the joinery business, while two aunts ran a drapery shop in the village.
A sense is gained of a society more laid-back, and with closer ties to the land, than is generally the case today.
For example, one of the aunts who kept the shop also had a milking cow, which was always with calf in the spring. The byre was just across the road from the house.
A short distance along the road lived the blacksmith, Sandy Gilmour, who had several cows of his own.
Each morning, the various cows would meet up, and make their own way up the road towards Whistlefield for the day’s grazing, and would usually be trusted to return of their own accord in late afternoon.
Both families also kept poultry, which were free range in the widest sense.
Such a seemingly relaxed regime would be almost impossible to imagine today, but it would be quite wrong to look upon the village as a rural idyll.
Any thought of a so-called ‘Golden Age’ is probably little more than wishful thinking. The writer also refers to the long working hours — shops seldom closed before 11pm on Saturdays.
Another example of the sorts of challenges people faced in those days was an outbreak of scarlet fever which raged through school.
Medical care was then relatively rudimentary, and at that time, the disease was rightly one to be feared, and several of William’s siblings ended up in Helensburgh Fever Hospital.
The book is by no means all negative, however, and much of the text looks at life through the eager excitement of youth, though there are a number of mature reflections by the author.
William’s first teacher at Garelochhead School was Miss Wood, whom he called “a big kindly woman”. After several years, he transferred to the headmaster’s class. John Connor was his name, and he was assisted by his eldest daughter Nan, who is referred to as a pupil teacher.
William’s description of Mr Connor reads: “He was of medium height and stocky, with a brown beard and bushy eyebrows.
“He had pale blue eyes which often showed a humorous glint, and possessed the steadfast gaze of one whose life is spent in the observation of human nature.
“He was one of the old-time dominies, now alas long extinct. His pupils could never make the excuse they had learned little from him.”
There were many well-known personalities of the day. One was Susie Reid or McGlone of “Susie’s Castle” fame, and he wrote of her: “Susie knew everybody and everybody knew Susie. She talked to anybody and everybody.”
Then there was “King Duncan” McKichan, piermaster at Mambeg for 50 years. Duncan, like many others, also kept livestock, and like many of the McKichan family, did a good deal of fishing too.
Other characters included Sandy Gilmour, the brawny village blacksmith, a man of many talents — but few words.
Geordie McKinlay was the roadman, whose ‘beat’ was from Balernock to Witches Bridge, on the Finnart road.
Always cheerful, no matter the weather, he toiled ceaselessly to keep the road in good condition.
“Old Greenfield” and “Faslane” were both McFarlanes, but always known by the names of their farms.
Their very large holdings extended as far as Garelochhead, and both were good friends to the village.
Then there were the Irish labourers, men who had worked on the construction of the railway, but a number of whom had stayed on to help maintain the track.
They are described as fine, upstanding men, with a simple but wholesome diet, and who were never seen to be the worse for drink — nothing at all like the stereotype image of the drunken and feckless navvy.
These and others are brought to life by William’s pen.
At that time there were also a number of very wealthy people living in the district, and there are fascinating glimpses of their character and lifestyles.
Miss McDonald, whose family owned the Stewart and McDonald department store in Glasgow, lived at Belmore, now inside the Faslane base.
She had her own steam yacht, complete with crew, mostly from the West Highlands, fitted out in smart blue uniforms.
William writes that she supported all good causes, and helped provide work for unemployed local people.
Also well-known were the Brooman-Whites from Arddarroch, whose family business originated in the huge chemical works at Shawfield, near Rutherglen.
Richard Brooman-White was the first person in the district to own a motor-car, and tackled the challenges faced by the motoring pioneers.
Colonel and Mrs Marryat lived at Finnart House. Mrs Marryat was a Caird, whose wealth was derived from the jute mills of Dundee. The Colonel was related to Captain Marryat, author of rollicking sea-stories such as 'Mr Midshipman Easy'.
William had a good deal to say about the Brownes of Bendarroch, the “big hoose” in the village proper.
Family finances were based on marine underwriting, but one single disastrous business decision cost them dear, and it was only thanks to the private means of Mrs Browne that the family managed to remain afloat.
William thought very highly of them, and he wrote: “The Brownes of Bendarroch were one of those families who lived to help other people, and the good work they did for our village can never be properly estimated.”
William loved to explore the surrounding area, and this led to various adventures. One of the most notable was a night-time fishing expedition to Loch Goil, led by a great pal, Peter McKichan.
By the time of this escapade, Peter had married, and was living over the hill at Portincaple.
When they arrived back, in the “wee sma’ hours”, William was absolutely exhausted and starving.
He refers to the meal set down to him by Peter’s wife on their return as simply the best he ever enjoyed.
More next week from this absorbing 126-page paperback, published by Northern Bee Books of Hebden Bridge at £11.95.
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